Surviving History

This is the first of two articles I recently produced for an application. It bares some similarity to an earlier post on this page, so please forgive any repetition. (second article follows below)

Rabinal Guatemala: Surviving History

By Nick Logan

Rabinal is a municipality that has withstood Guatemala’s tumultuous past, yet maintained a treasured heritage that many assume has long since perished. Generally, the Maya are thought to be a race of people whose civilization either self-destructed or was wiped out by colonialism. The Maya, despite their historical hardships, survive today and make up 43% of the country’s population, divided into 23 distinct groups. The people and their culture thrive in rural communities, such as Rabinal – home to the Maya Achi.

The surrounding terrain serves as the perfect metaphor to Rabinal’s distant and modern history: rugged yet beautiful, exploited but vibrant. As one travels the winding roads, into the dusty valley where the town rests, you cannot help but wonder how such a small town can have such and significant past. The townspeople are living history or, at the very least, the perpetuators of it. Every January, during the Rabinal fair, an ensemble of local performers depicts the centuries-old Rabinal Achi. It is an epic piece that depicts a great battle between the Achi people and the K’iche tribe. Grand, colourful costumes and wonderfully handcrafted masks accentuate the music- and dance-comprised drama. It is a prime example of historical preservation and oral tradition, passed from one generation to the next; a remarkable feat for a culture that survived covertly under European rule and religious authoritarianism.

It is a source of pride for Guatemala and its aboriginal population. And, while not famous globally, it has gained some much-deserved notoriety internationally. Two years ago it was recognized by UNESCO as a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.” This is an honour which is shared with works such as: Japanese Ningyo Joururi Bunraku (Puppet Theatre), The Cambodian Royal Ballet, and Mexico’s Day of the Dead festivities.

While this beautiful and intricate drama is a highlight of a journey to Rabinal, one must observe another form of “living history” when visiting – the people of Rabinal themselves. It was only under thirty years ago when the Maya Achi faced another epic battle. Over 4900 people, within the municipality’s jurisdiction, were murdered during the genocide that engulfed the country during the early 1980s. The violence swept through all of the municipality’s towns and villages. Indigenous men, women, and children were tortured and killed under the guise of eradicating the guerrilla movement.

The people of Rabinal – specifically in the village of Plan de Sánchez – were the first to stand up and seek recognition of the atrocities they suffered and to push for charges to be laid against the government and military for crimes against humanity. Their method of revenge is to keep the past in the public eye. Monuments to those slain during this horrendous time have been erected on the outskirts of town; each lists the names of those known to be lost during various massacres. The faces and stories of those slaughtered can be seen on the walls of El Museo Comunitario de Rabinal Achi (The Rabinal Achi Community Museum).

The two histories are brought together in halls of this tiny museum forming a testament to the perseverance of Rabinal and the Maya Achi. Words can only do so much to express the emotion – joyful and sorrowful – evoked by the presentations. When you walk out the gates and head back through the town, it is impossible not to take such sentiments with you. As you look into the eyes of those passing by, and exchange a friendly smile, you sense their spirit of survival against the adversities and transgressions of history.

The road twists back up the mountain, on your way out of town, and you think to yourself, “How can a place so significant be so small?”